“A Journey to Kyiv Is a School of Self-Definition”

Mateusz Dobrowolski is a Polish musician, journalist, and teacher of folk music, dance, and frame drum performance. He first came to Ukraine in 2023, and since then, Kyiv has not let him go. Over this time, Mateusz has visited Ukraine five times, discovering not only the Ukrainian music scene but the city itself.

According to VisitKyiv.com, in the first half of 2025, foreigners and stateless persons crossed Ukraine’s border 1,194,983 times. Poland ranked third among all countries by the number of crossings, with 116,589 made by Polish citizens.

The VisitKyiv.com team spoke with Mateusz about his travels, the role of music in building communities, and the experience of living in the capital during wartime.

First Encounter with Kyiv

I first visited Ukraine in July 2023. I was lucky because I traveled together with Vlad Yaremchuk from the Atlas Festival. I had met him earlier at several music conferences where he gave talks about the war in Ukraine.

Traveling is much easier when someone helps you get oriented at the beginning. When we arrived in Kyiv for the first time, it was already late in the evening. Early in the morning, I woke up to go to the bathroom and saw Vlad standing by the door. Vlad said: “Oh, you’re awake — great. We have 15 minutes to go down to the shelter.” At that moment, I thought that I was beginning to understand how everything works.

We spent the next two hours at one of the metro stations, drinking herbal tea and waiting for things to calm down. It was a fairly large-scale attack: cars were burning, and a missile flew not far from our building.

For someone visiting Ukraine for the first time, this kind of experience makes a very strong impression.

Between History and Technology: First Impressions of Kyiv

During my first trip, what impressed me most was Kyiv’s vibe. There was a lot of new and modern infrastructure, but at the same time, remnants of the Soviet past remained — for example, residential buildings with concierges.

In Poland, this is very unusual: I don’t know any ordinary apartment buildings with concierges, except perhaps in luxury apartments, but certainly not in typical high-rise buildings.

On that same trip, I saw a billboard saying “Kyiv awaits you after victory.” It struck me as strange and outdated. Later, Ukrainian friends explained that these billboards appeared at the beginning of the full-scale invasion to support morale. Still, it seems to me that today this message no longer works, and perhaps the strategy should be reconsidered.

Why Do People Hesitate to Come to Kyiv?

I believe people should be encouraged to visit Kyiv because it is welcoming, alive, and relatively safe. Even during my January trip, I visited many places — museums, bars, and restaurants.

Foreigners don’t always understand that during a war, it is still possible to enjoy life, go to concerts, museums, bars, and at the same time donate and support the army.

In Poland, the most recent memories of war are associated with World War II and the brutal German occupation. For many people, war is absolute evil and the worst possible scenario. It is difficult for them to imagine what it is like to live in a state of war but not under occupation.

I never once felt that I wasn’t welcome here. People are very hospitable and supportive of the idea of “solidarity tourism.” They are curious about why I came, but at the same time, they are open — ready to welcome you, share stories, thoughts, and experiences.

Kyiv’s Living Scene: From Apartment Gatherings to Open-Air Dancing

Kyiv’s music scene is young, active, and much more progressive than Poland’s. People here are open to experimentation. Recently, I helped my friend Zakhar Davydenko from Suspilne Radio write an article for the British music magazine Songlines about “Smyk” — large folk techno parties in Kyiv. This kind of format is currently unattainable in Poland — it’s something truly new and fresh.

What also impresses me is how close-knit this community is. Every time I come, spontaneous ideas emerge to gather at someone’s home and play music together. In Poland, this way of life has almost disappeared — we rarely meet in someone’s apartment. In Kyiv, it’s not a problem. It’s not only about making music for an audience, but about a lifestyle.

Kyiv musicians also carry out large projects, such as open-air summer dances on Volodymyrska Hill, on large wooden terraces, where around 200 people dance the kozachok and polka to live acoustic music.

That’s why this musical community is a magnet for me. Everything else in Kyiv is a pleasant bonus. If such a community existed in Rivne or Lviv, I would go there instead. Because it’s not about the city — it’s about the people.

A Kyiv You Want to Return To

What is happening now is a moment of awakening and breakthrough for national identity. You can put pressure on people in any way you like, but they will find a way to make their lives meaningful and fulfilling. Identity holds people together.

Ukraine has many wonderful and talented musicians, most of whom have never been to Poland. People often don’t realize that Ukraine has been in a kind of “lockdown” for five years already. First COVID, then the war, which has lasted for more than a thousand bloody days. This means that the younger generation — under 25 — has had almost no opportunity to travel in their adult lives. And it’s not only that they don’t travel — foreigners rarely come to see them either.

That’s why coming here is a big deal. Being a foreigner, talking to young people, realizing how much we have in common. For young people, it’s not always obvious that not only are our languages similar, but culturally we are very close as well. In a way, you feel like an ambassador of your country — or rather, a diplomat.

When I started returning every six months, people understood that I was doing this for them. In addition to my trips, I performed with bands and organized charity workshops in support of Ukraine. I also happily hosted friends at my home in Warsaw.

Preparing for the Trip: Safety and Practical Matters

Because I had contacts on the ground, I was technically prepared. Having a Ukrainian SIM card and constant internet access makes life much easier. In Poland, two companies offer insurance for such trips.

It’s also important to learn in advance about air raid alerts and current restrictions, such as the curfew. The trip requires some preparation, but it’s definitely not a reason to cancel it.

How Life in Kyiv Changes Your View of the World

A journey to Kyiv became a school of self-definition for me. After it, I no longer have patience for anti-Ukrainian views, and I became even more aware of my negative attitude toward Russia.

You can read about the war, but it’s a completely different thing to look into the eyes of a woman who lost her husband in the war. To witness these human tragedies in person. During my last trip, I attended the farewell ceremony for artist-soldier Davyd Chychkan — it was unbearably difficult. It’s hard to tolerate people who don’t understand the scale of this destruction.

I also started thinking about learning Ukrainian. Although you can travel without it, a phone with internet is enough. From a Polish perspective, you can always make yourself understood, because many words are similar.

Being in Kyiv is an amazing feeling. I really want people to come to Ukraine, because it is truly worth it.